So, I find it's a bit of a refresher to paint models every now and then.  When I was a young runt, I had the whole Top Gun fever, and I got really into building different aircraft- and it might have set the tone, because My mother claims that between my running around my living room with a model jet wearing my Dad's aviators while blasting that cassette soundtrack, and my insistence on wearing bomber jackets until I was like 12 years old... I was gonna be a pilot.  But, after realizing that a bit of color blindness would disqualify me, that dream went down like Goose in the Pacific.

Also, I may have just watched that movie.  Take me to bed or lose me forever.

But I still had enough to paint some good models.  I had Hero Quest, First Quest, and some really lame Hero Quest knock-off that had hero characters with interchangeable weapons- and I actually basecoated them and painted them, because I saw Warhammer models and I was poor.  Finally, I cut some lawn over the summer and plopped down $150.00 in front of my mom and said I wanted Warhammer Fantasy, a Chaos army.  So she went and bought it.  

Honestly to this very day I still enjoy painting the Chaos models from both 40k and Fantasy/Age of Bullshit.  I don't play these armies (I'm a Black Templar guy myself, but I might be a tread-head soon), but there's something fun about playing with the bronze and bone colors here and there.  If I can find them, I may share pictures of the 'one of each' Champions of the chaos gods that I'd made.  

And I've found some pretty awesome models out there from other companies, too.  Warmachine/Hordes makes some pretty weird steam-fantasy stuff with a good helping of traditional Sword & Sorcery models.  Even though they no longer produce models, if you can find them?  Rackham miniatures produced some of the weirdest/coolest miniatures I've ever seen, without the 'bulky heroic' scale of Games Workshop/Forge World models.  Another place that was brought to my attention recently was Wyrd miniatures, and while their stuff is limited in number, it looks good.  If you've got a tough stomach, Kingdom Death has some pretty uh... bizarre monsters and hero miniatures but I wouldn't put them on the living room shelf if you're expecting polite company.  And Infinity (Not the Disney game) rocks some great sci-fi models, though their faces can be a little fugly sometimes.

So the purpose of this thread is the following:

Are you looking for a particular model/miniature?  State what kind of character/critter you're looking for and myself and probably others can help you find not one, but several and help you find a place that sells it.

Do you want to try your hand at painting?  Since this isn't ever as easy as it looks (the ones you see on many of the games' sites are done by some very well-paid and well-trained professionals), this might be a good place to offer advice on the tools and techniques.

Do you have a 3d Printer and want to start pimpin' your shit? DO IT!  Show off some things you've made, too.

Have you made some interesting modifications, custom models, or found an interesting miniature?  Show it off here.

Would you like to review the quality of a specific company's product- especially to warn people about shoddy craftsmanship?  You're a creature after my own heart, show that shit off here, too.

I'm currently building some Space Marines for WH40K, specifically the Charcarodon or Space Sharks chapter. The idea is a nautical-themed group of space privateers, hunting xeno and traitor shipping in the name of the emperor.

I have a small five man squad done so far, armed with bolters and close combat weapons (Charcarodon marine can take cc weapons at +1 pts). The spears are intended to invoke harpoons and fishing spears like many pacific islander cultures used, with some axes and cutlasses thrown in for that pirate feel.



I'm looking for any and all ideas to make the marines more pirate/maori inspired. Cybernetic peg-legs, eye-patches and that sort of thing.

Can you do those little 'Islander' tribal tattos?  It's really difficult.  I'd also recommend looking at something that looks like netting to put on them somewhere, get some 'tribal' knives and such strapped to them.

Also, I highly recommend getting the Tyberos the Red Wake.  https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Tyberos-The-Red-Wake

I can probably also recommend some bits you can use for them, and it's not too much of a stretch to mess around with the colors on those sets and make them work.

https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Alpha-Legion-Head-Hunter-Kill-Team-Upgrade-Set

https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Salamanders-Upgrade-Set

Thanks for the input!

I think I'll stay away from Forgeworld, their stuff is amazing but so very expensive - it's a slippery slope to become too reliant on those Those Alpha Legion heads are amazing though, I'll have to try my hands at making a similar conversion.

The Red Wake is a good model, and very nice on the table, I just prefer making my own characters. I think its the roleplayer in me who can't stop creating little narratives. I'll go for a Captain, a crazy old coot of a leader obsessed with the Great White Carnifex that bit his leg off

Tribal tattoos are a great idea. I'm not sure how to make them look best, think I'm gonna consult some of my friends who paint a bit better than me. It'd look badass on space marine armor.

Quote from: Battle Mad Ronin;902441Thanks for the input!

I think I'll stay away from Forgeworld, their stuff is amazing but so very expensive - it's a slippery slope to become too reliant on those

You know, I understand your aversion because of the price point.  I recommend finding a buddy that wants to use the excess parts and see how much he's willing to throw down.

Also, keep in mind that if you want a real 'sharky' look, these: https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Salamanders-Legion-Firedrakes for their heads only- much of which you could find on eBay or other sites (even if it is a 'recast', it's just a head).  Then slap them on these: https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Tartaros-Pattern-Terminator-Armour.  Add decorum as needed.  It'll give them a real interesting 'predatory sea shark' look, especially if you utilize all that free space on the armor.  

Have you got much experience painting them?  I can give you a walkthrough on how I do mine.

Quote from: Battle Mad Ronin;902340I'm currently building some Space Marines for WH40K, specifically the Charcarodon or Space Sharks chapter. The idea is a nautical-themed group of space privateers, hunting xeno and traitor shipping in the name of the emperor.

I have a small five man squad done so far, armed with bolters and close combat weapons (Charcarodon marine can take cc weapons at +1 pts). The spears are intended to invoke harpoons and fishing spears like many pacific islander cultures used, with some axes and cutlasses thrown in for that pirate feel.

I'm looking for any and all ideas to make the marines more pirate/maori inspired. Cybernetic peg-legs, eye-patches and that sort of thing.

You might check out Antimatter Games. Their line Deep Wars is just gorgeous, and you may find tons of inspiration and conversion fodder. (A Space Marine with a turn of the century diver's helmet might look awesome by the by). They also have some nice deep-sea themed bases.

Those are some very tempting minis all round. I'd be cool to include a few scaly armors for veterans or the like, so I can include them without using them for all of my minis. Some veterans in FW bits supported by a 'centurion' from Antimatter games perhaps? I know some of my friends like ordering custom bits from FW, I'll ask them to include some bits for me next time so we can split the shipping costs.

Quote from: Crüesader;902489Have you got much experience painting them?  I can give you a walkthrough on how I do mine.

Please do, any and all inspiration is appreciated!

Quote from: Battle Mad Ronin;902520Please do, any and all inspiration is appreciated!

Oh shit son, you shouldn't have said this.  I sat on the office computer and made you something big... Here it is... (prepare for double, maybe triple posting!)

So, first let me tell you the most useful tools you can ever invest in.

Decent brushes- don’t buy Games Workshop brushes.  Go to a hobby store and buy a bunch of different teeny tiny detail brushes for as cheap as you can- don’t get anything that’s obviously gonna fall apart, but get something that’s durable enough to do the job, but cheap enough that you can replace them regularly.  Do the same with some that are just a bit bigger, and then the next size up.  You should have 3 different sizes of ‘little bitty’ brushes, and to start get at least 3 of each size to start with.  Then get a calligraphy brush set.  One medium-sized calligraphy brush is going to be your ‘bitch brush’, the rest are ‘basecoat brushes’.  They’re gonna get thrown around like an ugly stepchild, so don’t spend TOO much on any of these.  Remember, a ‘really good brush’ only lasts a tiny bit longer than a ‘decent brush’- and you’ll be replacing them at about the same rate- so think of your wallet.  Don’t believe Games Workshop brushes are ‘really good’, either.  The hair falls out of them so fast, you’d swear they’ve been exposed to radiation.

Good paint- There are online charts for matching Games Workshop paints to off-brands that aren’t priced like they’re hand-squeezed from a unicorn penis on Full Moon Leap Day.  Go with the knock-offs … except for a couple of exceptions.  I have to give credit where it’s due, and the washes that Games Workshop makes are pretty good.  These things are LIQUID TALENT, so you should invest in them- as well as some ‘Ardcoat (it’s all in the same paint pots, just look for it)- ‘Ardcoat is good for making things look ‘glassy’, so it’s perfect for lenses, eyes, tongues, or even ‘fancy high-tech glossy armor’.

Magnifying lamp- trust me, when you start detailing these little things, this comes in VERY handy.  It’ll let you see that you’re putting the right amount of paint in a spot and not missing any of the details that are easy to miss in normal lighting and without the lens.  Also, you’re going to burn your hands a bit so don’t wear latex gloves unless you want melted latex searing your flesh.  WARNING- the hotter this bad boy is, the quicker it can make your paint dry.  Be sure you’re letting it cool and rest, keeping your brush cleaned off, and thinning your paints a LOT or you’ll get boogered* paint.

Scalpel set-  Maybe this is just me being a snob about sharp objects- but they last a HELL of a lot longer than an X-acto knife and they’re a lot less likely to break when you start gouging at the plastic/resin.  Plus, there’s different blade options for you to do different things.

Flat, sturdy, plastic white thing (some folks call this a ‘palette’, but that sounds sophisticated).  A cheap whte cutting board works just fine.  You’ll want the white to show you an accurate look at what you’re mixing- and you can use a bit of bleach to get this thing clean.  This is where you will make little puddles to mix for certain things.

Shop towels- These are like paper towels, except a hell of a lot sturdier when wet, and they have little threads through them.  It’s a lot less rough on your brushes than a dish towel, it doesn’t come apart and get shit all over your brush like a regular paper towel, and it soaks better than a bandana. You’ll need this to get paint off your brush, and you’ll see what I mean.

A Big Honkin’ Cup- To wash your brush off, duh.  Fun little secret, though- get a big honkin’ fat cup- Mine’s from Hardee’s.  That way you can swish around your brush a bit more (don’t be too aggressive with this, or your brushes will go Don King on you).

Sticky Tack- that gum shit you use for posters, whatever it’s called.  Trust me. This stuff is awesome for what we’re doing.

Bottlecaps-  I know this is going to sound silly, but trust me.  Take some of these and sticky-tack them to your flat sturdy white thing.  Drop a bit of water in them.  These are where you’ll ‘dab’ a little water, I’ll explain later.

Dental tools- good for digging gunk out of hard-to reach places in the eyes, ears, hair, inner thighs, armpits, etc.- and they work just as great on your models for the same thing!

Now, this is MY method.  Keep in mind it’s not a ‘professional’ method and my work is far from ‘hot shit’, but this works for me.  Feel free to play around with it once you get the hang of it.  No one ever stops learning to paint models.

Ready to start? ‘ERE WE GO, ‘ERE WE GO, ‘ERE WE GO!

This is what you need:

Your Flat White Thing with about 5 bottlecaps glued to it, each filled with water

A big honkin’ cup of water

1x Bigger brush to apply paint over a large surface

1x whatever brush to transfer paint and thin it with water (The Bitch Brush)

Shop towel, damp

Sticky-tack

A Red Bull, beer, or soda can (anything shaped like this that you can hold will work).

Your paints (duh)

Basecoating is pretty simple, and there’s two ways to do it (Spray and Brush).  But the things you have to remember:

- Basecoat toward the final result. Unless you’re making someone with Olive skin or darker, basecoat flesh with white.  If you want someone with a dark complexion, basecoat in grey or even black.  Armor that’s going to be white should be basecoated in white if you want it to look ‘clean’, but things like cloth and armor that need to have a more ‘used’ and ‘gritty’ look should be basecoated in grey.  Black basecoat makes things look darker, grittier, dirtier- so it's awesome for WH40k.  Not to mention, it gets into the little cracks for you and saves you a bit of work (you'll see later).

-THIN YOUR PAINTS!!!  Some people say 50/50 with water/paint, but I’d say it’s more like 30/70 water/paint- depending on what you’re doing, what you’re painting, and what kind of paint you’re using.  40/60 water/paint at the very most works for me sometimes. The best way to test this?  Grab a useless chunk of the sprue and play around with painting it using various mixes.  The type of plastic/resin you’re painting on makes a HUGE difference, so it’s best to test it here.  Don’t quote me on this, but I’ve head of guys thinning their paints with Pedialyte for a better effect, but I can’t verify this.

-Be careful with a spray.  They’re great for multiple models, but you need to have a strategy- very rarely should you be spraying down several fully assembled models.  Also, keep your spray in a relatively ‘normal room temperature’ area.  Spraying when it’s cold tends to make the paint ‘booger* up’ if you hold it too far away.  The best thing you can do is grab a chunk of the sprue and practice blasting on it.  It’s better that it’s pretty thin than clumping.  If the paint spray clumps, just toss the can aside and do this old-school.

-Old-school basecoating is easier than you think.  Grab a bigger brush- the calligraphy brushes that have brushes that are about the girth of a pencil work just fine.  Get them relatively cheap, but not so cheap they’ll fall apart on you.  You’re going to beat the shit out of this brush.  Use it to apply a thinned-down basecoat.  Brush, brush, brush- even if you think this thinned coat is ‘too watery’- if you just keep at it the paint will eventually ‘win’ and start laying down thin.  There might be some gaps, so keep at it.  It’s better you have it ‘too thin’ and have to keep doing this than ‘too thick’ and have a ‘boogered*’ layer of paint.

*Booger:  An effect of the paint to have little chunks, like you painted over the boogers on a public bathroom wall.

So, PAINTING SPACE MARINES:

The first step is to set them up for painting.  This means you build them to a point.  If you’ve already built them, that’s fine- you can pop off and re-glue them if need be (don’t make a habit of this).  All you’ll need to do is scrape some of the dried glue off and scratch at the ‘fix point’ before you re-glue them.

This is what you should have assembled on a standard Space Marine: Base, legs, upper torso, and any ammo pouches/knives/purity seals.  You’ll understand in a minute.

Now, before you start- see that little nub on the back where the backpack goes?  And that little ‘pit’ where the neck is supposed to be? Leave that alone, don’t put any paint on those spots if you can avoid it.  If you do, scratch at it a little bit with something sharp, just go gouge it up a little (it’s so the glue will grab and bond to the plastic).

Put some sticky-tack on the can’s bottom.  Then plant the base on there.  Get it set where it won’t wiggle a lot. You’re going to hold it by the can.

If you’re going to spray them, this is where you spray- just remember that ‘white or grey under pale, black under dark’.

If you’re going to use the brush to basecoat- get after it.  Now, pay attention- this is an IMPORTANT step.  Learn this little method, it’s crucial.

Get your paint pot, shake the fuck out of it (hold it closed).  Open it, get your bitch brush and dab some of it onto your Flat White thing.  Use the bitch brush to dab out some water from the bottlecap, and mix it with your paint to thin it down- this is ‘Making Puddles’.  Every time you make a puddle with a color, that ‘bottlecap’ belongs to that color (it can be used for different shades, though).

After you make a Puddle, get your actual painting brush (or you can just use your bitch brush), dab some of the thinned paint, and wipe the excess onto your Shop Towel.  Having ‘too little’ on your brush is ALWAYS better than having too much, so don’t be afraid to play with this method for a bit (Again, you’ve got a whole useless plastic sprue sitting there, so utilize it).  This is something you will be doing repeatedly.

So, when you’re ready to basecoat by brush- thin down some of your preferred basecoat color, wipe most of it on your shop towel, and start painting every bit of the model you can get to.  It will be thin, but you just have to slap it around on there repeatedly and it’ll start to behave the way you want it to.

Before you get some more paint from your Puddle, rinse the brush out.  This is very important.  Yes, you’ll have to dab your little puddle every time and start over, and maybe even make a new puddle if that one dries- but it’s part of the process.  Think of this like some sort of Zen training or some shit.

This might take a bit- but soon, you’ll have a very thin, fine layer of the base color on the model.  This is CRUCIAL to painting over that plastic/resin.  Remember- VERY THIN LAYER is what you want.  Don’t worry if there’s little bitty ‘spots’ where you can still see the grey plastic/resin through the paint, just get a very fine layer over it.

If the brush ever feels like it’s ‘grabbing’ the model, you need to rinse that sucker out really good, and maybe make a new Puddle.

After it’s covered, go smoke a cigarette, take a walk, eat a sammich.  Give it like 15 minutes at least.  It won’t be fully bonded, but it’ll be set in good enough to start working.

Now, here’s where it gets a little tricky. Grab his arms, and hold them by the shoulders.  Don’t worry about the pauldrons, leave them off for now.  Pinch that little bitty part of his shoulder and basecoat the arms.  If you can’t hold it, stab it where it meets the torso with a shitty X-Acto knife or needle, or you can even use that Sticky Tack for it.  No one sees this part of the model, so it’s fair game.

Do the backpack next, and avoid getting paint in the little divot that meets the nub.

Now, when they’re dry (take another 15 minutes) glue only the arms and backpack on the model and leave it alone.  Set that bad boy aside, time to get to some good stuff.

Sticky Tack is PERFECT for this, but take a pen or something, then grab a pauldron and put a little booger of it inside the pauldron, then stick it on the pen. Now basecoat it and paint it- the main color of the shoulderpad (innermost layer).  Then set it down and let it be for a bit.

Use the same method as above with the head, leave the bottom of the neck alone.  If you’re painting a flesh head- leave it be.  I put the best guidance I could at the very end of this guide.

Take a break.  You’ll want what you’ve got glued together to dry, and the only things not attached to your Space Marine should be his shoulderpads and his helmet.  Now, I’m not one to dictate what you should do with your own body- but you’ve probably been staring at this little plastic man for WAY too long.  Don’t strain your eyes, you honestly do need a break.  Even if you think you’re being tough, over-straining your eyes is how you miss shit, start shaking like a Politician in church, and then you fuck things up.  Taking a rest at this point is CRUCIAL when you’re painting entire squads.  Go somewhere dark, let the optics cool off for a moment- maybe grab a nap and dream of killing filthy Xenos and heretics.  I’ve actually sat with professional painters and they’ve said this very same thing.

Now, while we’re here it might be a good time to tell you that once you’ve got the hang of this method- you can do entire squads the same way.  Just do the group in the same phase- do all the torsos and legs, all the backpacks, all the arms, etc.  Just practice on one dude first, then start doing squads when you’ve got the hang of it.

Now we’re gonna get to the meat ‘n taters.

Primary painting

This my method.  Others argue that this isn’t the ‘best’, and many people have their own methods…but if you’re new to painting them- this is the ‘safest’ way to paint them without screwing up.  I’ve been doing this since I was a teenager in the 90’s, and I still default to this very method.

Now, this is where you’ll have to get one of your smaller brushes- if you can avoid using your tiniest brush, do so. We’re going to start painting some details, but there’s a trick to this- we paint from the inside out.  That means you go for the parts closest to the skin and work your way out.  So, in the case of a standard regular old Space Marine:  You’re going to blacken the flexible ribbing, the helmet eyes, the breathing/speaker vent, the vents on the backpack, basically all the ‘innie’ parts.

The reason you put several bottlecaps on the palette?  You don’t want to use dirty water to mix with your paint.  So now you have a variety of places to dab from.  If they all get nasty, clean them out or just pop them off and get some new bottlecaps and water.  Simple as that.

Shake your black paint like a hysterical junkie (because most of these parts are either black or ‘shadowed’).  Apply it to the innie-parts- don’t worry about teeny-tiny little holes and cracks, we’ve got a tool for that later.  When you’re painting the model, you want the bristles of your brush to bend as little as possible, and you don’t want to use the tip of the brush- use the edges of it if you can (sometimes, you just have to use the tip a little bit for hard-to-reach spots like eyes and such).  Just make little strokes.  If it doesn’t cover the basecoat very well, just work with it in little bitty strokes.  If it runs out all over the place, it’s too thin or you didn’t wipe your brush off good enough (don’t worry, we can fix any ‘mess’ it made).  But it being thin helps it run all into those little cracks and hard-to-reach spots.

Once you’re done, you might see some spots where you hit things with paint you didn’t want to hit- this is fine, it’ll get painted over.  That’s why you work from the inside out!

Now it’s time to start painting the main ‘hard armor’ parts of your Space Marine.  Most of them are one or two colors, so this is actually pretty easy.  Just use a small brush and paint in smooth and soft strokes, using the side of the brush as much as you can.  When you’re doing armor- you want even, smooth strokes in the same direction- with thin paint.  Even if it’s not covering your basecoat completely, just be patient and go back over it again.  Unless you’ve used way too much water, the paint will ‘win’ and work with you.  Smooth strokes are key here, and be good to the brush and use the edge as much as you can.  Be as cautious as possible near the edges close to things you’ve painted black- but don’t beat yourself up too much if you hit them a little- we can always fix it, especially if we’ve got thin paint.

After this, start doing things like the trim and other little parts (namely, the Aquila, the parts of the bolter/chainsword/whatever and the edges of the pauldrons and any other major parts).  Don’t worry about the red details of the eyes or anything just yet.  Just focus on the major details of the armor, and do this lightly and gently with a smaller brush.  Don’t cake gold/metallics on- it’s thick, so thin that shit down a lot and wipe really good.  It takes some time to get just enough, but you should start with a brush that has barely anything on it, and eventually it will start highlighting to where you want it to be.

Notice how this ‘thin paint’ phrase is repeated. I can’t emphasize this enough.

By now, your Space Marine should look like a very basic Space Marine, even if he’s not put together- he’s got most of his colors in the right spots. In all honesty, if you’ve got this far- this is where a lot of people just stop painting and start assembling their Space Marines, and call it a day.

But we’re better than that.  Give the models a rest for a while- maybe a couple of hours or just call it a night for now.  Your eyes need the rest, too.

Now, when you come back look the models over.  Hit places you missed (You did, and you’ll notice them) with a thinned-out bit of paint, touch up the spots.  Apply one more thin layer, just as you did before.  But we ain’t done yet… we’re about to make this model sexy.

You should have some wash- I spoke about this earlier.  Nuln Oil is my go-to for anything that isn’t brown or green or dirty.  Shake the pot, shake it like a Polaroid picture.  This is the ONLY thing I don’t thin down (it’s already thinned), but I do wipe the brush.  Run this shit around every little crack and crevasse.  You’ll notice the effect in a moment.  You see that shit?  Instant shading.  Most people who discover this for the first time are like, OH HELL YEAH! Because it makes the models look so good.  It’s well, well worth the investment.  A little dab will do you, so use it sparingly- but it’s very, very thin so be careful around places you don’t want it to go.  However, you do want this stuff to run down in the cracks and corners.

Now it’s time to do your helmet eyes.  This is really tricky and requires a steady hand- and don’t feel bad, some folks don’t even bother (sometimes I don’t).  Touch a little bit of thinned-down red paint into the eye holes.  Then dip some ‘Ardcoat on them when that dries.  Touch up any places you hit with the red.  Like I said, this is very difficult so don’t feel bad if you just want to skip this part and leave them black.  I do this a lot.

Now look at the various parts of the model- start with the main armor color. Get paint one shade lighter.  Get a tiny detail brush. Use the bitch brush, thin, then dab and wipe just like before- then get your tiny detail brush for this.  But you’re going to want the very edge of your brush for this, and touch every part of the model that has an edge, along the edge.  Just gently rub around the edges of those parts with the side of the brush.  Congratulations, you’re highlighting- it’s a fairly easy step that most people are afraid to even attempt.  Repeat this for every part of the model- and if you’re very careful?  Do it on the raised parts of the ribbing and the vents.  This gives the model’s edges a ‘worn’ look and makes it look more realistic.

Now… glue everything together when the paint is dry.  If you followed these steps and don’t have Parkinson’s disease, you should have an impressive looking Space Marine- and you might find, as I’ve said- most people too afraid or lazy to paint them this far.

Bare heads with no helmet- this is REALLY tricky, and even I get frustrated to the point where I’ve gone out of my way to make sure none of my models are without a helmet.  But I’ll advise the best I can for this:

Step 1- Hit the inside of the mouth with a dark red, try to avoid the teeth.

Step 2- Hit the teeth and eyes with white, being as careful as you can.

Step 3- Being as steady as you possibly can- get a new brush and dab just a bit of color- a little pinpoint where you want the pupils.

Step 4- Apply ‘Ardcoat to the teeth and eyes.

Step 5- Do the flesh just as you would any other part of the model, being careful around the eyes and mouth.

Step 6- Go over the hair in a dark shade of the color you want.

Step 7- Throw some Agrax earthshade (Another wash color) on the hair and on the face in very small amounts- don’t smear it on the face, just hit around the ears and in any wrinkles.  Be careful around the eyes.

Step 8- Highlight the hair just as you did the armor in a lighter shade.

Step 9- Hit the hair again with Agrax Earthshade.

Damn, I really got the Crüsader machine started there

All very helpful advice. I've painted miniatures before, and there's still lots of little tricks I never thought of. Thanks for taking the time to help me out man!

Quote from: Battle Mad Ronin;903218Damn, I really got the Crüsader machine started there

All very helpful advice. I've painted miniatures before, and there's still lots of little tricks I never thought of. Thanks for taking the time to help me out man!

No problem.  Now let me know when you want to learn to do mud on your Rhino/Land Raider tracks.  I can show you to do it with a pencil eraser and brown paint.  I'm not joking.

Post more pics of figs!!!

Quote from: Spinachcat;903292Post more pics of figs!!!

Shit camera and I'm away from models right now.  Otherwise, I'd love to.

Biggest conversions? Haven't done much lately, but here are some Vrusk and Yazarians I made for a Traveller/Star Frontiers mashup some years ago.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]172[/ATTACH]
The bodies are Spugs, I think, legs are from some Ral Partha figures that were basically just those legs, and the heads I had to sculpt myself.

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Here, the male bodies are from West Wind WWII werewolves, and the female is a Reaper werewolf. The  weapons are from Hasslefree. Rest is Green Stuff.

Currently, I'm on a lookout for some decent Deep Ones/Kuo Toa. Fantasy, not Weird War, which sadly leaves out lots of good stuff, especially the West Wind ones. And preferably in metal, too...

Quote from: Dr. Ink'n'stain;903498Biggest conversions? Haven't done much lately, but here are some Vrusk and Yazarians I made for a Traveller/Star Frontiers mashup some years ago.

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The bodies are Spugs, I think, legs are from some Ral Partha figures that were basically just those legs, and the heads I had to sculpt myself.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]173[/ATTACH]
Here, the male bodies are from West Wind WWII werewolves, and the female is a Reaper werewolf. The  weapons are from Hasslefree. Rest is Green Stuff.

Currently, I'm on a lookout for some decent Deep Ones/Kuo Toa. Fantasy, not Weird War, which sadly leaves out lots of good stuff, especially the West Wind ones. And preferably in metal, too...

Those look pretty sexy.

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One with not many of the details touched.